The Princess cut diamond ring: 4 BIGGEST MISTAKES MADE

On the hunt for the best princess cut diamond ring? We can’t WAIT to help you make it. Princess cuts are a little tricky, because GIA does not offer cut grading for them. Also, some of the most important factors of top quality princess cut diamonds are not listed on the GIA report at all! But don’t worry, just read on, and we’ll show you with pictures!

What is a princess cut diamond ring?

A princess cut diamond ring is an engagement ring with a sparkly square diamond in the center called a princess cut! Princess cut diamonds are square diamonds with pointed corners and brilliant faceting. These pointed corners separate them from radiant cut diamonds, which have clipped corners. And, the brilliant faceting means all its little cuts are triangular or kite shaped for max brilliance. This separates it from the squared off asscher cut.

Do princess cut diamonds sparkle?

Yes! Because of brilliant facets, a well cut princess with even contrast/brilliance and a proper table sparkle a lot! However, princess cut diamonds without proper cutting and contrast can also look kind of dead. So, it’s super important to look at the details when choosing your princess cut.

Is color or clarity more important in a princess cut diamond?

As long as you’re looking at an eye clean stone, color is much more important. Because color can concentrate in a princess cut diamond’s tips, it is very important to make sure that you choose a diamond that faces up “white“. Most G+ color, VS2+ clarity princess cut diamond rings will appear white and eye clean – and be a great value.

Princess cut length-to-width ratio

Ratio is how square or rectangular your princess is – and you don’t want to get it wrong. While both square and rectangular princess cuts are beautiful, your fiancee probably has a preference. If you want a truly square princess, choose a ratio of 1.03 or under. The human eye cannot tell the difference between 1.00 and 1.03 ratio! Up to 1.05 will look somewhat square. A Princess cut diamond ring with a ratio over 1.05 will begin to look rectangular, with ratios over 1.1 looking elongated.

Pro tip! If you are “compass setting” your princess cut, choose a stone 1.00 or 1.01 to be safe!

What is the best princess cut diamond?

The best princess is white, eye clean, has a depth below 72%, a table smaller than 73%, even contrast/brilliance, and, arguably, a length-width ratio of 1.03 or under! These industry guidelines are the very minimum you should look for. However, there is much more to learn about getting the best princess cut. The four HUGE mistakes below will help you spot them and pick the best of the best!

What should I look for in a princess cut diamond?

On top of the standard guidelines of being white, eye clean, depth below 72%, and table below 73%, it’s important to look for stones that have good contrast, a cushion table, no odd reflections, and white tips. It’s a lot to look out for! But, these small details make all the difference in a really stunning Princess. Check out the photos in the mistakes below, and you’ll feel confident knowing what to look for:

Mistake #1 No contrast/Uneven Contrast

“Contrast” is the term for dark areas in your diamond, and yes, you actually want some! Contrast acts as a dark background from which white and rainbow sparkle pops. So, diamonds with well spaced contrast look more sparkly than diamonds without enough contrast. Still don’t believe me? Consider photographing a white puppy on a white blanket. He’d blend in, right? That’s all lost sparkle. Now, consider photographing that white puppy on a black blanket. Wow! He’s so bright and white! That’s how you want your sparkle to pop! Contrast is more important in princess cuts than maybe any other diamond because of its steep angles and large table. So, don’t make the mistake of skipping over contrast!

Another thing to lookout for is uneven contrast. Uneven contrast is where there is a dark pattern on one side of your stone that is not mirrored on the other side. A princess cut diamond’s symmetry is very important. Stones with uneven contrast will look lopsided and confusing to the eye. So, always make sure to image your stone cut in half the long way. Does the right match the left? Good! Just don’t get stuck with a lopsided contrast diamond.

Mistake #2 Odd reflections

Princess cuts have deep pavilions (bottoms), which can lead to ugly reflections in the stone – avoid them! Do the facets on the right match the ones of the left? Do they look crisp and clean? Or, does the stone look like broken glass a bit? Princess cut diamond rings with odd reflections often look like jagged class, or that there is an odd pattern that you can’t quite place. Make sure to stand back and look at the diamond. No, seriously, take a couple steps back from the computer, even. Does it look symmetrical and attractive? Or, does it have some weird broken patterns? Never choose a stone with odd reflections, they will distract from a stone’s beauty.

Mistake #3 Big square tables

Next to contrast, a princess cut diamond ring’s table size and shape are the most important factors in ensuring max sparkle. This is because smaller tables equal more sparkle and less fingerprints that dull shine. Unfortunately, most people do not talk about this issue. In fact, the industry guideline only speaks to the table percentage. However, because diamond tables are measured from the widest point and not overall size, two princesses with 73% tables can look vastly different.

Some tables look more square, while others appear more “cushion” shaped. Cushion shaped tables mean that the top flat facet of your stone comes in a bit at the corners, making the overall size of your table a bit smaller. So, when analyzing your table facet, I suggest setting your filter to 73%, but only considering 73% tables if they are cushion shaped. The added space for crown facets on the side of the table ensure more rainbow sparkle. Plus, a smaller table area means fingerprints won’t steal your stone’s brilliance. If you don’t want to worry about looking for cushion tables, set your filter to 71% and below, and reap the benefits without needing to analyze.

Mistake #4 Colored tips

Don’t buy a diamond that looks dingy in its tips! Because color can concentrate in diamond tips, it’s very important to make sure all four of your princess cut diamond’s tips are nice and white. So, sit back and look at your diamond from a distance. Does its color look even? Or, do you see a concentration of warmth in its tips? Don’t get caught purchasing a stone that has warm tips, it will distract from beauty, and not look great against your princess cut diamond ring’s setting.

Princess cut vs Other Shapes

Is Princess cut better than round?

Princess cuts are the second most popular diamond shape, second only to round. Round diamonds are engineered to sparkle more than princess cut diamonds. However, couples that choose princess cut diamond engagement rings cite their love of the princess cut’s modern shape as the winning factor. So, whether a princess cut is right for you, or a round, depends upon your personal preferences!

Do round or princess cut diamonds look bigger?

Because of their extreme depths (typically 70-73%), Princess cut diamonds tend to look a bit smaller than Round diamonds (with depths closer to 60-63%). In measurements, a 1 carat round diamond is typically around 6.5mm, whereas a 1ct Princess is around 5.5mm However, due to the Princess’s diagonal length, this size difference is not as striking as one may think. In fact, a 1ct princess “compass set” is actually around 7.75mm in width on the diagonal!

How do you make a princess cut diamond look bigger?

Compass setting a princess makes the stone look larger, as does a halo setting. Compass setting a princess diamond means turning it so it is set north/south/east/west instead of as a square. Because a princess’s diagonal length is longer than its side length, this really boosts its size! Also, choosing a halo setting easily adds another 4-6mm in overall width and height, making it a great choice for bang for your buck!

What’s the difference between cushion cut and princess cut?

Princess cuts are square cut diamonds with hard edges and sharp corners, whereas cushion cut diamonds are square-ish diamonds with soft, pillow-like edges and corners. Both diamond cuts are “brilliant”, meaning they have triangular and kite shaped facets. So, they both sparkle a lot! Princess cut stones are cut a bit more deeply than cushions, meaning cushions may face up a bit larger, however this is not a big visual difference. In terms of popularity, princess cuts have been more popular lately, while cushion cuts are more historically popular!

Is cushion cut better than princess?

Princess cuts are currently more popular than cushion cuts, however, a cushion cut tends to sparkle more than a princess. Choosing between a cushion and a princess cut diamond ring really comes down to style. Couples who choose princess cuts are typically more modern and fashion-conscious. Cushion lovers tend to be more traditional and love antique styles. Both are beautiful, squarish, and sparkle like crazy!

Why are Princess cut diamonds cheaper?

Princess cut diamonds are less expensive than other cuts because diamonds grow in a square shape, and so cutting a princess results in less diamond rough waste. As a result, diamond cutters are able to get more, and larger, diamonds out of one piece of rough diamond crystal. Less waste and higher efficiency results in less expense to you!

Can you help me choose the BEST Princess cut diamond?

You betcha! We love princess cuts! Feel free to write us at care@doamore.com and we can run a custom search for the most beautiful princess cuts out there! Or, feel free to drop us a line here. We can’t wait to make your perfect, sparkling Princess cut diamond ring!