Asscher Cut Diamonds - Do Amore

Asscher Cut Diamonds

The first Asscher cut diamond was cut in 1902 by Royal Asscher Diamond Company. Though they were somewhat popular in early 1900s, today they are very uncommon and rare. In fact, at the time of writing this article, only 0.7% of GIA-certified diamonds available for sale globally were asscher cut (8,323 out of 1,178,007 diamonds). Despite their rarity, asscher cut diamonds make for beautiful center stones that have the look of a vintage diamond, with the brilliance of a more modern diamond.

Table, Depth & Other Specifications for Ideal Asscher Cut Diamonds

Like other fancy cut diamonds, the GIA does not grade asscher cut diamonds for cut. For this reason, it is important to note that any website or store that advertises a GIA-certified asscher cut diamond with a cut grade is offering their own grade based on the stone specifications (the accompanying GIA certificate will not have a cut grade). While there is no problem with this, we strongly recommend you verify the cut grade yourself.

The table below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut grade of an asscher cut diamond.

asscher

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Ideal Cut (Most Sparkle)

Excellent Cut

Very Good

Table %

A percentage measuring the width of the top facet of the diamond, divided by the overall width of the diamond

61 - 69%

Sl1 - Sl2

l1

Depth %

A percentage measuring the height (depth) of the diamond divided by the overall width of the diamond.

59 - 62.3

Sl1 - Sl2

l1

Girdle

The outmost edge of the diamond where the top (crown) of the diamond intersects with the bottom (pavillion) of the diamond.

Thin to Slightly Thick

Thin to Slightly Thick

Sl2

Culet

The small area at the very bottom of a diamond that looks like a point.

None

None

Very Small

Length to Width Ratio

The length of a diamond divided by its width. When comparing diamonds, those with larger ratios appear more rectangular (less square)

1 - 1.01

VS2 - Sl1

Sl2

Color Recommendations for Asscher Cut Diamonds

The color grade of an asscher cut diamond refers to how much color (or lack of a color) the diamond shows. In general, asscher cut diamonds reveal more color compared to other diamond shapes because step cut diamonds do not hide color as much as brilliant cut diamonds. This isn’t anything to worry about, but you may want to get consider getting one color grade higher than you would plan to get if you were buying a different diamond shape, like a round diamond.

The good news is that smaller asscher cut diamonds hide color better than larger asscher cuts do, so depending on the size of diamond you purchase, you may not need to buy a colorless (D-F) diamond even if you want your diamond to appear colorless. The chart below will help you decide on what color asscher cut diamond to purchase based on if you want a colorless diamond, a diamond with limited color, or a warmer diamond.

asscher

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Carat Weight

No Visible Color

Limited Color Okay

Prefer a Warmer Color

< 0.5

D - I

J - K

L +

0.75

D - I

I - K

L +

1

D - G

H - I

J +

1.5

D - F

G - I

J +

2.0 +

D - F

G - I

J +

Clarity Recommendations for Asscher Cut Diamonds

The clarity grade of asscher cut diamonds discloses how many and how severe the imperfections are on the diamond. It’s harder to see flaws on smaller asscher cut diamonds than larger ones, so if you are buying a smaller stone you can get away with purchasing one with a lower clarity rating while keeping an eye-clean appearance. However, you can see imperfections in an asscher cut diamond more easily than you can in other diamonds because the step cuts make them easy to spot. While in many shapes you can find “eye clean” SI2 diamonds, this is very rare in asscher cut diamonds unless it is a very small diamond.

Evaluating clarity in asscher cut diamonds is subjective because each consumer has their own standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with inclusions as long as they cannot easily see it, but other may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. The clarity chart below provides general guidelines for picking a clarity rating for your asscher cut diamond, based on your inclusion tolerance. Please note that the ratings in the Clean to the Naked Eye column assume that your jeweler will check to ensure it is actually eye-clean. For example, every time a customer purchases an asscher cut engagement ring from us, we send a gemologist to check and make sure the diamond is “eye-clean” and inform the customer if it isn’t. If you want an eye clean stone, make sure you ask your jeweler to do the same because basing it off the GIA-certificate is not enough.

asscher
asscher

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Caret Weight

Clean Under Light Magnification

Clean to the Naked Eye ("Eye-Clean")

Visible Blemish Okay As Long As Not Very Obvious

< 0.5

FL-VS2

SI1

SI2-I1

0.75

FL-VS1

VS2-SI1

SI2

1

FL-VVS2

VS1-VS2

SI1-SI2

1.5

FL-VVS1

VVS2-VS2

SI1

2.0 +

FL-VVS1

VVS1-VS1

VS2-Sl1

Length to Width Ratio for Asscher Cut Diamonds

All asscher cut diamonds in our diamond search engine have the length to width ratio listed. This ratio, which is simply the length divided by the width, determines how close to a perfect square the diamond is. A diamond with a 1.00 ratio means the diamond is a perfect square. However, most people can’t discern if an asscher cut diamond is a perfect square or not as long as the length to width ratio is 1.04 or less (and even trained gemologists can’t discern if a diamond is perfect square or not as long as the length to width ratio is 1.03 or less). Are you able to tell in the images below? It’s not easy, but when you focus hard enough you will be able to tell the difference, especially if comparing the asscher cut with the 1.07 ratio vs the perfect asscher cut with the 1.00 ratio. We personally recommend asscher cut diamonds with a length to width ratio of 1.04 or less, so that the stone looks like a perfect symmetrical square.

1.00

1.04

1.07

Settings that Pair Well with Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher cut diamonds pair well with most rings, however, their vintage look and square shape means they don’t flow well with every ring design. The below rings are a few of our favorite asscher cut engagement rings that would be at the top of our list if purchasing an asscher cut. These asscher cut engagement rings are available in all metals, including 14k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, palladium, and platinum.

Money Tips

When looking for an asscher cut diamond, make sure to always try to maximize measurements while maintaining the ideal cut specifications. For example, you can have an ideally cut 1.0 carat asscher cut diamond with the measurements 5.40 x 5.30 mm. But there could also be an ideally cut 0.98 asscher cut diamond with measurements 5.50 x 5.40 mm that is just as ideally cut that is probably cheaper. If all else were equal, the second option may be a better option. All diamonds in our “hand selected” stone section above have had their dimensions reviewed to make sure they were being maximized for their carat weight, while maintaining an ideal cut.

3 Things to Ask Your Jeweler

  • 01.

    Photo & Video

    Always ask the jeweler you are buying from for a detailed picture or video like this one.

  • 02.

    Inspect It

    Ask the jeweler to pull the diamond and actually visually inspect it.

  • 03.

    Measure It

    Make sure your diamond’s measurements are maximized within your carat size.

Other Ring Resources

See our in-depth educational guides, which were made to give practical advice with every aspect of your ring.

Diamonds

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Moissanite

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Sapphires

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Gold Palladium & Platinum

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