Asscher Cut Diamonds - Do Amore

Asscher Cut Diamonds

The Royal Asscher Diamond Company faceted the first Asscher Cut Diamond in 1902. Although quite popular in early 1900s, Asscher Cuts are pretty uncommon today. In fact, at the time of writing, only about 0.7% of GIA-Certified Diamonds for sale globally were Asscher Cut (8,323 out of 1,178,007 diamonds). Unusual and elegant, Asscher Cut Engagement Rings give a beautiful, vintage engagement look.

Table, Depth & Other Specifications for Ideal Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher Cuts are square-shaped gems with long, rectangular facets and clipped corners. Due to this unique faceting pattern, Asscher Cuts glimmer, like a hall of mirrors, as opposed to the traditional “sparkle” of round diamonds.

Like all other fancy cut diamonds, the GIA does not grade the cut quality of Asscher Diamonds. So, any jeweler who advertises an Asscher Cut with a cut grade is merely offering their own opinion. The stone’s GIA Certificate will not list a cut grade. For this reason, choosing a great Asscher Cut can be challenging. Furthermore, there is no industry standard of what makes an “Ideal Asscher Cut Diamond.” Because Do Amore strives to educate and help its customers, we provide our opinion on each of our Asscher’s cut grades. We have also have assembled the table below as a general guideline for evaluating Asscher cut grade.

Pro Tip! Because Asscher cuts vary so much in proportion, it is imperative that you double check the gem visually for beauty. Here’s two tricks:

– Windmill: Do you have a nice square stone whose facets create a four-armed windmill effect? That’s what you want!

– Black Box: Do the facets reflect to create an ugly black box in the center? Stay away.

asscher

Scroll right for more table details

"Ideal"/Excellent Cut (Most Sparkle)

Premium Cut

Average Cut

Table %

A percentage measuring the width of the top facet of the diamond, divided by the overall width of the diamond

58 - 68

56-57 or 69-70

Over 71

Depth %

A percentage measuring the height (depth) of the diamond divided by the overall width of the diamond.

62 - 70

59-61 or 71-72

Over 73

Girdle

The outmost edge of the diamond where the top (crown) of the diamond intersects with the bottom (pavillion) of the diamond.

Thin to Slightly Thick

Thin to Slightly Thick

Very Thin or Very Thick

Length to Width Ratio

The length of a diamond divided by its width. When comparing diamonds, those with larger ratios appear more rectangular (less square)

1 - 1.01

1.02 - 1.05

Above 1.06

Windmill Effect

The stepped facets from the gem's wide clipped corners should create a four-armed Dutch windmill effect.

Wide, Even

Slightly Narrow, Even

Narrow, Uneven

Step Symmetry

Evenly Spaced

Slightly Uneven

Large Gaps

Hall of Mirrors/Black Box

The shimmering dark/light effect when the diamond is rocked back and forth. Look for a vertical, even display of light and dark. If your stone produces a black box in the center, it's distracting, reject it.

Vertical, Even Display of Light and Dark

Too Light or Too Dark

Black Box

Color Recommendations for Asscher Cut Diamonds

The color grade of an Asscher refers to how much yellow or brown tint (or lack of tint) the diamond shows. In general, Asschers reveal more color compared to other diamond shapes because its long facets do not mask color through traditional sparkle. Because warm candlelight was much more common in the early 1900’s, many Asscher Cut Engagement Rings from that time are warmer-toned colors like I and J. In contrast, with bright LEDs all around us today, many couples prefer colorless Asscher cuts for a whiter look.

Smaller Asschers mask color better than larger Asschers do. So, depending on the size of diamond, you may not need a colorless (D-F) diamond (even if you want your diamond to appear colorless). The chart below will help you decide on what color Asscher Cut to select based on if you want colorless, a slight tint, or a warmer colored diamond.

asscher

Scroll right for more table details

Carat Weight

No Visible Color

Slight Tint

Prefer a Warmer Color

< 0.5

D - I

J

K - Z

0.5 - 1.0

D - H

I

J - Z

1.0 - 1.5

D - G

H - I

J - Z

1.5 +

D - F

G - H

I - Z

Clarity Recommendations for Asscher Cut Diamonds

The clarity grade of an Asscher reflects how “crystal clear” the diamond is, or, in other words, the amount of birthmarks (“inclusions”) it has. How obvious these inclusions are informs which clarity grade a diamond receives. For example, a larger gem with a small inclusion will receive a better clarity grade than a smaller stone with the same size inclusion. This is because the inclusion is less noticeable in the larger stone. However, because Asscher cuts do not sparkle the same way brilliant cut diamonds do, inclusions are easier to see in them. So, even a small inclusion is pretty obvious. As a result, couples choosing larger stones will mostly need to consider VVS1 or VVS2 grades for an eye-clean look. The clarity chart below provides general guidelines for picking a clarity for your Asscher.

Pro Tip! Always have your jeweler check to confirm eye-clean appearance. We check every Asscher Cut Engagement Ring we sell and inform our couples if it is not eye clean. Because of Asscher’s unique faceting, the GIA Certificate is not enough!

asscher
asscher

Scroll right for more table details

Carat Weight

Eye Clean

Visible Blemishes OK If Not Obvious

Inclusions Impact Beauty

< 0.5

FL-VS2

SI1

SI2-I3

0.5-1.0

FL-VS1

VS2

SI1-I3

1.0-1.5

FL-VVS2

VS1

VS2-I3

1.5 +

FL-VVS1

VVS2-VS1

VS2-I3

Length to Width Ratio for Asscher Cut Diamonds

All diamonds in our search engine have the length to width ratio listed. This ratio, which is simply the length divided by the width, determines how close to a perfect square the diamond is. In other words, a diamond with a 1.00 ratio means the diamond is a perfect square. However, most people view Asscher Cuts as visually square as long as the length to width ratio is 1.05 or less.

Check out the images below. Are you able to tell? It’s not obvious, but when you focus, you’ll see it. Especially when comparing the Asscher Cut with the 1.07 ratio vs the perfect Asscher Cut with the 1.00 ratio. We personally recommend Asschers with a length to width ratio of 1.03 or less, so that the stone looks like a perfectly symmetrical square.

Square Asscher cut diamond

1.00

Asscher diamond with 1.04 length-to-width ratio

1.04

Asscher cut diamond with 1.07 length-to-width ratio

1.07

Settings that Pair Well with Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher cuts pair well with most rings. However, their vintage look and square shape means they don’t flow well with every ring design. So, couples should look for settings which showcase the gem’s square shape and classic appeal. These are a few of our favorite Asscher Cut engagement rings. These Asscher engagement rings available in all metals, including 14k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, palladium, and platinum.

Money Tips

Due to Asscher Cut’s broad proportion ranges, three Diamonds of the same carat weight can look and measure wildly differently. So, when looking for an Asscher Cut, use a very wide Carat Weight range (such as 1.20 to 1.70 for a carat and a half stone) in connection with our Recommended Proportions in your search. Then, look at each one for max measurements and beauty. You may find a better priced, bigger measuring Asscher Cut with a technically lighter carat weight than a more expensive, heavier stone that measures smaller! All diamonds in our “Recommended” stone section above have had their dimensions reviewed to make sure they were being maximized for their carat weight, while maintaining an ideal cut.

3 Things to Ask Your Jeweler

  • 01.

    Compare It

    Use a wide Carat Weight range and Recommended Proportions to get the best bang for your buck!

  • 02.

    Photo & Video

    Always ask the jeweler for a detailed picture or video, like these stones. Check for windmill pattern and no black boxes!

  • 03.

    Inspect It

    Ask the jeweler to physically see the diamond – visually inspect for symmetrical shine as you rock it back and forth.

Other Ring Resources

See our in-depth educational guides, which were made to give practical advice with every aspect of your ring.

Diamonds

diamond

Moissanite

moissinite

Sapphires

sapphire

Gold Palladium & Platinum

gold-pallidium-platinum