Princess Cut Diamonds - Do Amore

Princess Cut Diamonds

While princess cut diamond are the second most popular diamond shape in the world, they are still relatively rare. In fact, at the time of writing this article, only 4.9% of GIA-certified diamonds available for sale globally were princess cut (58,726 out of 1,178,007 diamonds). Princess cut diamonds, which are also referred to as square modified brilliant diamonds, were originally cut 50 years ago and cost slightly less costly than round cut diamonds.

Table, Depth & Other Specifications for Ideal Princess Cut Diamonds

Like other fancy cut diamonds, the GIA does not grade princess cut diamonds for cut. For this reason, it is important to note that any website or store that advertises a GIA-certified princess cut diamond with a cut grade is offering their own grade based on the stone specifications (the accompanying GIA certificate will not have a cut grade). While there is no problem with this, we strongly recommend you verify the cut grade yourself.

The table below serves as a general guideline for evaluating the cut grade of a princess cut diamond.

princess

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IDEAL/EXCELLENT CUT (MOST SPARKLE)

Very Good

Good

Table %

A percentage measuring the width of the top facet of the diamond, divided by the overall width of the diamond

67-72

60-66 or 73-75

57-59 or 76-81

Depth %

A percentage measuring the height (depth) of the diamond divided by the overall width of the diamond.

64-74

62-63 or 75-76

60-61 or 76-78

Girdle

The outmost edge of the diamond where the top (crown) of the diamond intersects with the bottom (pavillion) of the diamond.

Very Thin to Slightly Thick

Very Thin to Slightly Thick

Very Thin to Thick

Culet

The small area at the very bottom of a diamond that looks like a point.

None

Very Small

Small

Length to Width Ratio

The length of a diamond divided by its width. When comparing diamonds, those with larger ratios appear longer and skinnier.

1-1.03

1.04-1.05

1.06-1.07

Color Recommendations for Princess Cut Diamonds

The color grade of a princess cut diamond refers to how much color (or lack of a color) the diamond shows. Evaluating color in princess cut diamonds is important. Like most diamonds, smaller princess cut diamonds will hide color better while larger princess cut diamonds will show color easier. If you are wanting an ice white diamond, it is best to stick in the D-F color range however, if you just want a colorless appearance then you may be able to go to a G, H, or even I color depending on the size. The color chart below provides a guide for evaluating color in princess cut diamonds, based on the carat weight of the diamond you are buying, and your personal color preference.

princess

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Carat Weight

No Visible Color

Limited Color Okay

Prefer a Warmer Color

< 0.5

D - J

K - L

M +

0.75

D - I

J - K

L +

1

D - H

I - J

K +

1.5

D - G

H - I

J +

2.0 +

D - G

H - I

J +

Clarity Recommendations for Princess Cut Diamonds

The clarity grade of a princess cut diamond is based on how many and how severe the imperfections are on a diamond. It’s harder to see flaws on smaller princess cut diamonds than larger ones, so you can get away with purchasing a lower clarity rating on smaller diamonds while maintaining an eye-clean appearance. In addition, because princess cut diamonds are brilliant cut and have a lot of sparkle, they hide blemishes fairly well.

Evaluating clarity in princess cut diamonds is subjective because each consumer has their own standard for clarity. Some may be perfectly comfortable with inclusions as long as they cannot easily see it, but other may insist on a more technically flawless appearance. The clarity chart below provides general guidelines for picking a clarity rating for your princess cut diamond, based on your inclusion tolerance. Please note that the ratings in the Clean to the Naked Eye column assume that your jeweler will check to ensure it is actually eye-clean. For example, every time a customer purchases a princess cut engagement ring from us, we send a gemologist to check and make sure the diamond is “eye-clean” and inform the customer if it isn’t. If you want an eye clean stone, make sure you ask your jeweler to do the same.

princess
princess

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Carat Weight

Clean Under Light Magnification

Clean to the Naked Eye ("Eye-Clean")

Visible Blemish Okay As Long As Not Very Obvious

< 0.5

FL-SI1

SI2

l1

0.75

FL-VS2

SI1-SI2

l1

1

FL-VS2

SI1

Sl2

1.5

FL-VS1

VS2-SI1

Sl2

2.0 +

FL-VS1

VS2-SI1

Sl2

Length to Width Ratio for Princess Cut Diamonds

All princess cut diamonds in our diamond search engine have the length to width ratio listed. This ratio, which is simply the length divided by the width, determines how close to a perfect square the diamond is. A diamond with a 1.00 ratio means the diamond is a perfect square. However, most people can’t discern if the diamond is a perfect square or not as long as the length to width ratio is 1.05 or less (and even trained gemologists can’t discern if a diamond is perfect square or not as long as the length to width ratio is 1.03 or less). Are you able to tell in the images below? It’s not easy, but when you focus hard enough you will be able to tell the difference, especially if comparing the princess cut with the 1.07 ratio vs the perfect princess cut with the 1.00 ratio.

1.00

princess cut diamond with 1.05 ratio

1.05

princess cut diamond with ratio of 1.07

1.07

Settings that Pair Well with Princess Cut Diamonds

Princess cut diamonds pair well with most rings, however, their boxy shape and sharp corners mean they don’t flow well with every ring design. The below rings are a few of our favorite princess cut engagement rings that would be at the top of our list if purchasing a princess diamond. These princess cut engagement rings are available in all metals, including 14k white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, palladium, and platinum.

Money Tips

When looking for a princess cut diamond, make sure to always try to maximize measurements within your ideally cut diamond. For example, you can have a 1.0 carat princess cut diamond with the measurements 5.40 x 5.30 mm that is ideally cut. But there could also be a 0.98 carat princess cut diamond with measurements 5.50 x 5.40 mm that is just as ideally cut that is probably cheaper. If all else were equal, the second option may be a better option. All diamonds in our “hand selected” stone section above have had their dimensions reviewed to make sure they were being maximized for their carat weight, while maintaining an ideal cut.

3 Things to Ask Your Jeweler

  • 01.

    Photo & Video

    Always ask the jeweler you are buying from for a detailed picture or video like this one.

  • 02.

    Inspect It

    Ask the jeweler to pull the diamond and actually visually inspect your princess cut diamond.

  • 03.

    Measure It

    Make sure your princess cut diamond’s measurements are maximized within your carat size.

Other Ring Resources

See our in-depth educational guides, which were made to give practical advice with every aspect of your ring.

Diamonds

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Moissanite

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Sapphires

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Gold Palladium & Platinum

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