So she wants an Asscher! She’s a class act. Asschers are elegant, rare, and stunning. They can also be a little confusing, as GIA does not recognize them as their own class (you’ll see them aka Square Emeralds). However, there’s more to that story – and you want to know it. So, how do you pick the best one? And what do you need to know to avoid issues? Let’s dive in.

What are Asscher diamonds?

Asscher diamonds are square shaped diamonds with clipped corners and mirror-like facets. They are one of only two “step” cuts of the ten standard diamond shapes. Step cut stones have long rectangular and trapezoid facets that shimmer like a hall of mirrors.

How do you pronounce Asscher cut?

Asscher is pronounced more like “Asher” (ASH-hur). If you’ve been pronouncing it wrong – you’re not alone! When I first entered the industry, I tried pronouncing it like a Cher tribute. But alas, her Heart of Stone wasn’t this pretty square shape. Oops! So, when pronouncing Asscher, you can simply leave out the extra “sc” in your head.

How many facets are in a Asscher cut diamond?

Asscher diamonds can have 57, 65, or 74 facets, depending upon the number of steps in its bottom (“pavilion”). There is no “right” or “better” option – they are just different looks! So, if you like a tighter, more pinstriped look to your steps, choose the 65 facet or 74 “Royal Asscher” pattern. Or, if you like a more open look with bigger flashes, choose the 57! It’s all personal preference.

Asscher diamond variations between 49 and 57 facets

What does an Asscher cut diamond look like?

Asschers are squares with clipped corners and alternating dark/light steps of facets. They can have wide corners, making them look more octagonal. Or, they can have small corners, making them look like a trimmed square. Those in the jewelry industry tends to prefer wide cornered Asschers. However, it is completely personal preference!

Do Asscher cut diamonds sparkle?

Not really – they “shimmer” more than they “sparkle”. Asscher cuts are made to exude an understated elegance. They were not designed to maximize sparkle.  So if “sparkle” is your goal, check out a square radiant! Square radiants have the same outline as an Asscher – a clipped corner square – but, they also have brilliant facets for max sparkle.

Asscher diamond vs Square Radiant diamond side by side

What is a good Asscher cut diamond?

In addition to standard parameters (white, eye clean, depth of less than 70%, table less than 68%), the best Asscher cut diamonds have evenly spaced steps, with alternating contrast/brilliance, and “windmill” effect corners. Unfortunately, these more nuanced quality factors are not listed on the GIA Report. But, you can learn them easily! Check it out:

Even Steps

Asschers require evenly spaced “steps” to maximize beauty. Otherwise, they look uneven and distracting. So, in order to make sure your stone has even steps, take a look at the spaces between them. Are they about the same width? Or, are some of those facets wider than others? For maximum beauty, make sure those facets are about equal.

Contrast and Brilliance

The next step (heh, get it?) is to look for alternating dark/light steps in your stone. Yes, you read right – you actually want some darkness in your stone. That is what gives your stone shimmer! “Contrast” is the dark background that makes “brilliance” (the white areas) pop. In fact, stones without enough contrast look “dead” and do not shimmer. You can see that here:

Windmill Effect

The best Asschers have an undulating “windmill” effect, created by the corner facets connecting with the middle of the diamond. And, it looks like one of those charming Dutch windmills! Almost all Asschers have windmill effect, however be on the lookout for the random stone whose corner facets stop short of the point (culet). Lack of windmill effect is sometimes this is okay. But many times the lack of windmill effect creates a watery dead zone. So, always check for your contrast! And make sure you like the pattern.

Ooh La La: Step cut square stones with sharp corners and no windmill effect are called “carre” (KAY-ray) diamonds.

Asscher Cut Quality Comparison Side by Side

Asscher vs Emerald

What is the difference between Asscher cut and emerald cut?

Emerald cuts are typically long and rectangular, whereas Asscher cuts are square! That’s the easy answer. But then what is a square emerald cut? Are they the same as an Asscher? Kind of, and both will say “Square Emerald Cut” on their certifications. And, while Square Emerald and Asscher are very frequently used interchangeably, technically, they’re not the same. True Asscher diamonds have a higher crowns (tops) and smaller tables than Square Emeralds, offering more rainbow shimmer. “Royal Asschers” have 74 facets. And, Square Emerald cuts tend to be a bit less even and a bit less square (over 1.03 ratio).

Is Asscher cut more expensive than emerald?

Not in theory, however, because Asschers are rarer than Emeralds, you may pay more if you’re not willing to wait for a value. Both Asschers and Emeralds require a higher color and clarity to be “white and eye clean”. So, you’re probably looking at G+ color and VS1+ clarity. This is a little higher than brilliant cut stones (like Round, Oval, etc.) require to be white and eye clean. As a result, Asschers and Emeralds can be more expensive than other brilliant cut stones. So, if you find yourself a gorgeous G/VS1 Asscher, jump on it!

Are Asscher diamonds rare?

Yes! Asschers make up less than 1% of diamonds available on the market today. And, well cut Asschers are a small percentage of even that. So, finding a gorgeous Asscher can take a second. But when you do, they’re drop dead gorgeous. Want more help finding a stunning, rare Asscher? Email me here with your parameters! I’ll run a custom curated search to find you the best of the best.

How much do Asscher cut diamonds cost?

White, eye clean, natural Asscher diamonds begin around $3,000 on our site, and lab Asscher diamonds of a similar quality begin around $2,000. However, Asschers, like all diamonds, vary greatly in price depending upon their specific 4Cs (color, cut, clarity, and carat weight) as well as diamond origin (lab or natural)! Even small differences can make a pretty significant difference in price. You can read more about how to get the best bang for your buck, while getting a beautiful white, eye clean diamond here!

Hot Tip: Also, you can see some of our recommended natural Asschers here and recommended lab Asscher here (these diamonds have been selected based on maximizing beauty and bang for your buck!).

Asscher diamond ring with baguette sides in yellow gold ring

Can you help me find the perfect Asscher?

For sure! Drop us a note here, or email us at care@doamore.com! I love Asschers and would be happy to run a custom search for you to find The One! Just let us know your search parameters – or ask for help.