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What is a emerald cut?
An emerald cut diamond is a rectangular diamond with long, mirror-like facets. It is a traditional cut with major historic value. There are numerous famous emeralds, including those that adorned the fingers of Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor, as well Amal Clooney, JLo, and perennial favorite Victoria Beckham.
Why do celebrities like emerald cut?
Because Emerald cut diamonds require higher color and higher clarity in order to face up white and eye clean, choosing an emerald is a way to showcase value. In this respect, high net-worth individuals enjoy purchasing emeralds because they flaunt wealth. However, you don’t need a D color flawless emerald shape like them, read on for tips on how to score a gorgeous emerald without the celebrity price.
Don’t Make these Emerald Cut Mistakes!
1. Not Knowing Emerald Cut Quality
Do emerald cut rings sparkle?
Not really, it’s more of a shine than a sparkle. Emeralds are not meant to be disco balls like other shapes. Instead, they are meant to show an understated mirror-like elegance. In fact, an emerald’s shine is called “hall of mirrors”! So, if “sparkle” is your biggest goal, try radiant instead. But if you love a gorgeous, high-end sheen, an emerald stone is for you.
What is the perfect emerald cut diamond?
The perfect emerald cut diamond is white, eye clean, and has a beautiful “hall of mirrors”. So, what is this hall of mirrors you keep hearing about? It is the light and dark bands on either side of an emerald’s table facet. These are important because in order for an emerald to have a shine, the stone needs to have some contrast to shimmer back and forth from. Otherwise, a stone can end up looking “dead”. Likewise, if the stone has too much darkness (often in the form of a “black box”) it can take away from beauty. So, you want to look for a hall of mirrors, not a box of them. Check it out:
2. Not Taking Clarity Seriously
Emeralds are “step” cut stones, meaning they have rectangular and trapezoid shaped facets. Step cut stones (which also include asscher cuts) show inclusions more easily than “brilliant” cut diamonds (every other shape except emerald and asscher). As a result, couples choosing emerald cuts need to select a higher clarity than they otherwise would need to get an eye clean gem. So, which clarity should you choose? Let’s explore:
What is VS VVS?
VS and VVS are higher end clarity ratings in the diamond clarity scale which starts at Flawless and ends in Included. Both VVS and VS tiers include two grades each: VVS1/VVS2 and VS1/VS2. VVS more flawless than VS, and 1 is more flawless than 2. So, the order goes VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2. It’s a lot of acronyms that can look a little daunting, but here’s a secret: they literally just mean “very slightly” and “very very slightly”. LOL! So, when all the letters get you down, don’t sweat it. You’ll know that “very very slightly” means there’s basically no inclusions in the stone.
Now, the distinction between these two tiers is very important in emerald cuts, as they typically need to be a minimum of VS1 in order to be eye clean. So, you will need to remember to set your filter to VS1+ (no VS2s allowed!). Then, when looking through stones, make sure that any VS1 you consider is actually eye clean (or email me to double check it!). Fortunately, VVS1 and VVS2 are almost always eye clean (only large stones could ever show an eye visible inclusion at this level).
Lab Diamond Couples: Make sure to be on the lookout for “crystal strain” in your emerald – it’s specifically noticeable in these cuts. Crystal strain is caused by the stone being grown too quickly, and looks like a “streaky” window. Not pretty, and unfortunately, not included in a stone’s certification (it can even happen in VVS stones). This only happens in lab stones. Read more here.
Is color or clarity more important in an emerald cut diamond?
Clarity is more important, because inclusions can be seen easily in emerald shapes, and color can be hidden by gold. Because emeralds have that iconic sheen, and not inclusion-hiding sparkle, clarity has to be your first order of business. VS1+ or VVS to be sure! However – color comes in second only because near colorless shades like H and I can be masked by setting the gem in yellow or rose gold. If setting in a white metal like white gold, palladium, or platinum, you’ll still need G+ color to look white-white.
3. Not Taking Color Seriously Enough
Do emerald cuts show color?
Yes, emerald cut diamonds show more color than other shapes. This is because emeralds do not have that dazzling sparkle to detract from color! In fact, the Emerald shape was originally designed to actually enhance color in colored gems like….emeralds. And, those long facets do the same for diamonds. As a result, while most shapes allow for H+ color to look “white”, emeralds really need G+ in most sizes (unless set in yellow or rose gold).
Pro tip: If you are prioritizing carat weight over color, choosing an emerald with significant contrast will somewhat detract from color. So, choosing a dramatic emerald with lots of contrast (but no black boxes!) can help.
Lab Diamond Bonus: Looking for white gold, but don’t want a warm center stone? Make sure to check out “blue nuance” diamonds in HIJ colors. Crisp icy blue instead of warm – and it looks gorgeous in white metals. Blue nuance is only available in lab created diamonds. Read more here.
4. Not Comparing Emerald Cut vs Other Cuts
Does an emerald cut diamond look bigger?
Yes, emerald shaped diamonds tend to look a bit larger than other shapes due to their long length and nice spread. Unless Princess cuts and cushions, which carry their weight in their depth, emerald cuts carry their weight in their diameters. You can make sure you’re getting a good spread on your emerald by ensuring its depth is between 60-67% (just don’t give up that hall of mirrors contrast by choosing too shallow of a stone)! You can read more about the industry’s general guidelines for emeralds here.
Is emerald cut more expensive?
Emerald cuts are often more expensive than other diamonds of the same size because you need to choose a higher color and clarity to look white and eye clean. However, if all other qualities are equal (for example, a G/VVS2 Emerald vs a G/VVS2 Round) the emerald will be less expensive. This is because emeralds do not waste as much of the rough gem crystal as round cuts do, and they are less in demand as rounds. So, if you’ve decided to go G/VVS already, an emerald can save you money! However, if you’re on the fence, definitely compare mid-range rounds against high-end emeralds to check value. Or email me to send you a selection within your budget!
Is Emerald cut the same as baguette?
No – emeralds and baguettes are cousins. A baguette cut is even longer and skinnier than an emerald, and has pointed corners. It also has a few less facets. Traditionally, baguette cut diamonds are used as side or accent stones, whereas emeralds are center stones. However, we have been seeing a few avant garde designers take baguettes on for sleek, modern center stones!
What is the difference between emerald cut and radiant cut?
Emeralds and radiants have the same outline, but emeralds are step cut, whereas radiants are brilliant cut. This means that emeralds showcase that gorgeous sheen, whereas radiants show true “sparkle”. Radiants can show a “crushed ice” sparkle or a “chunky” brilliant sparkle. Both shapes are rectangular with clipped corners. So, while emeralds are an understated elegance, radiants show extreme bling. They’re both beautiful in their own right! Which do you prefer?
Can you help me find the best Emerald diamond?
Yes! I’d love to send you a custom curated selection of gorgeous emerald diamonds for you to choose from. Just send me a note here, or email me at care@doamore.com! I can walk you through emerald hall of mirrors, color, and clarity benefits – and keep you on budget. We specialize in diamonds with max bang for your buck!
