Has your partner asked for a marquise diamond ring? Nice pick – marquise diamonds are brilliant, relatively inexpensive, and BIG. Who doesn’t love that combo? But, because marquise diamonds are not graded for cut quality by GIA, and they have a bit of a history, there are a few things you should know before you choose one. Let’s chat.

What does a marquise diamond look like?

A marquise diamond is a long almond shaped diamond with a plump center and pointed ends. Marquise can be long and skinny, short and plump, or somewhere in between. The French call the Marquise cut a “navette”, which means “little boat”.

What does a marquise diamond mean?

The Marquise originally got its name as it was specially designed for the Marquise of Pompadour. Notably, the shape was meant to symbolize her beautiful lips! So, the Marquise is a romantic, elegant shape. Choosing a marquise means that you’re stylish and larger than life!

Are Marquise diamonds good?

Marquise are sparkly stones that look larger than all other diamond shapes! So, they can be incredible. However, as they are a unique shape that has “fashion moments”, you want to make sure to choose a great one. That way, it will always be in style! Learn how below!

Marquise diamond ring with Maya pear side stones

Marquise in Maya

How do you pick a Marquise Diamond?

In order for a Marquise cut diamond ring to look “white, eye clean” and super sparkly, your stone should be H+, VS2+, under 62% depth, with a pleasing outline, and even contrast/brilliance without dark bowtie. Sounds like a lot, right? Don’t worry, we got you. Here are advanced tips on picking the best, most brilliant Marquise (for basic overview, check out our resource page)!

Ratio

How thin or plump your Marquise appears is personal preference, and is found by its “ratio”. This means, literally, its length divided by its width! Standard industry guidance says the diamond’s ratio (plump vs skinny) should be between 1.7 (plumper) to 2.2 (skinnier). But, I’ve seen gorgeous marquise beyond those parameters – so do what feels right.

Marquise diamond ratio variations

Shape

More important than ratio is to pay attention to outline. Marquise with harsh angles are not as graceful as those with beautiful curves. Marquise have wings! That is, the areas between the diamond’s middle and its point are the diamond’s “wings” – and they are where to look for curves or angles. A diamond with overly curved wings will look a little puffy and not as pretty. On the other hand, a diamond with flat wings will look too pointy (and also prone to breakage). So, go for “just right”!

Marquise diamond cut quality variations side by side

Contrast/Brilliance

Having even areas of light (brilliance) and dark (contrast) areas in your stone will ensure your diamond has max sparkle! Yes, you read that right, you actually do  want to have some darkness in your stone. Contrast is important because light things (like sparkle) need a dark background to reflect from, otherwise that sparkle gets lost. Consider milk in a white mug vs milk in a dark mug. You want that contrast!

Bowtie

Now, while you want contrast, you don’t want it concentrated into a dark distracting bowtie in the center. Because of a marquise diamond ring’s unique shape, if the diamond’s angles aren’t *just right*, the diamond will look dark in the center and light on the tips. Remember, you want EVEN contrast and brilliance. So, make sure to look at the diamond’s center. Is it dark and in the shape of a bowtie? Or, is it watery in it center, without any contrast? Both of those aren’t ideal. Here’s what to look for:

Marquise diamond ring cut quality contrast and bowtie side by side

Carat Weight

Marquise look larger than all other shapes! So, you’re in luck – your diamond will carry its carat weight well. So, just make sure to pay attention to its depth (under 62%) and then just find the measurements that look best to you. I often tell couples to measure and cut out a piece of paper on their finger of the size they want. This helps you to visualize what that carat weight looks like in your marquise diamond ring!

Color

Because Marquise are brilliant stones, you can get away with a lower color while still looking white. That typically means around H+ in white metal and I+ in yellow metal. However, it’s very important to make sure your color does not concentrate in the stone’s tips. Because of the difference in faceting of a marquise, color can sometimes appear warmer in its points than in its center. And, this is distracting. So, make sure to pay close attention to the diamond’s center!

Clarity

Marquise hide clarity flaws (“inclusions”) well too! So, you can frequently choose a VS2+ stone that will be eye clean – sometimes even SI1! The easiest way to make sure your stone is eye clean is to ensure your inclusions are under the stone’s side (“crown”) facets. Because of the marquise’s extreme sparkle, clarity flaws are well hidden under these facets.

Pro Tip! Good contrast throughout your stone will detract from warmth or clarity flaws!

Marquise diamond color variations H color vs F color vs D color side by side

Other Cuts vs Marquise Diamond Ring

Do marquise diamonds look bigger?

Yes! Because of the marquise’s nice long length, they face up larger than all other diamond cuts. In fact, marquise are the best choice for couples with a limited budget and a small carat weight – marquise cutting makes it look bigger! And, the marquise’s elegant length elongates fingers, too.

Are marquise diamonds more expensive?

No, marquise are actually one of the most affordable shapes. Add in that marquise look larger than other cuts of comparable weight, and they’re an incredible value!

Is Marquise diamond out of style?

The marquise has “fashion moments” – sometimes they are en vogue and other times they are less popular. After a surge of popularity in the 1970s, and dip in popularity in the 1990s-2000s, we’re seeing a resurgence of desire for marquise diamonds right now! And, well cut stones with super sparkle are always classic.

Who wears a marquise diamond?

Those with a flair for the dramatic. Celebrity marquise diamond rings include Catherine Zeta Jones and Victoria Beckham!

Halo Marquise Diamond Ring

What is the best setting for a marquise diamond?

Due to their connection to fashion trends, we recommend simple, classic settings that ensure your diamond is on point no matter what Cosmo says. So, think classic solitaires like our Asha, deco baguette side stones, or a classic halo like our Aspen. Read more about classic engagement ring style here!

Can you help me choose the best marquise diamond ring?

Of course. Send us a note here, or email us at care@doamore.com and tell us about your beloved! We would love to help you design the perfect marquise diamond ring – lab or natural!